Cheese Focaccia So Nice, You’ll Eat It Twice

At Angelina, a new bakery in Hell’s Kitchen, the four-cheese focaccia is the draw, but so is focaccia di Recco, a Ligurian specialty.

A flaky, beautifully burnished four-cheese focaccia is the draw at Angelina, a new bakery in Hell’s Kitchen. It is an exceptional treat, and even better when warmed and devoured on the spot. Take several portions of it home ($4.75 a piece) to cut into two-inch squares to serve, also heated, as cocktail snacks. Antonio Park —an owner and the baker, whose family is from Palermo, Sicily — adds zucchini, a nice touch, to some. He also makes rather run-of-the-mill focaccia and pizzas by the square, with various toppings, as well as huge, pillowy bomboloni and layer cakes. An uncommon specialty is focaccia di Recco, a parchment-thin double-crusted flatbread filled with stracchino cheese ($7 a slice), a specialty of Liguria. Usually enormous, they’re baked plate size here and sold until they run out. Mr. Park named the bakery for his daughter, not for the Parisian confectionery opening a few blocks away.

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